Bounded on the east by the city's most congested thoroughfare, on the north by a ritzy gated subdivision, it is esconced in a wooded little property, standing nearly opposite one of Makati's oldest apartment buildings(when they were still called apartments, not condominiums).
No outer signage is visible. Instead there is an unobtrusive sign that says Makati Garden Club that is the only indication that arguably one of the metropolis' best European cuisine restaurants, Maria Luisa Garden Restaurant, exists at all.
Not that it is deserted or empty, though a little hard to find. On the contrary, it is probably one of the city's best kept open secret.
Coming from EDSA, one need only turn into Ayala Avenue, and quickly veer right into the small cul de sac between Urdaneta Apartments and the Makati Garden Club, and stop just before the gate that permits and bars entry to posh Urdaneta Village to find oneself on the driveway that leads to the restaurant's doorstep.
What one finds...
A little trail leads to a small, cozy two room salon that is quaintly furnished with potted plants, whitechairs and draped tables. As one enters, one is greeted by the rich bouquet of mixed aromas...from freshly baked breads, to even fresher eucalyptus plants. It is a petites chambres, as they say in French,
a two room suite with an open kitchen in one room, and a busy little bar in the other. There is enough seating for thirty in one room, and thirty in the other. There are two dainty toilettes to help the guests refresh.
The gracious proprietress Sandra Fernandez greets one ever so warmly, flanked by the ruddy cheeked Swedish chef, Robert Lilja. Robert is a veteran of many restaurants all over the world, the most notable in the Philippines of which were Savoy on Kalayaan Street, and Balesin, the chi chi resort of the rich and famous.
What savories await...
From the complimentary amuses bouches...tempting morsels of fine ham or succulent salami on little pumpernickel tiles, to the crusty baguettes fresh from the oven, to the sip of sparkling yet subtle Mionetto Prosecco Rose, it is a hint that a fete gastronomique awaits!
The momentum is not lost...minutes later, in comes scrumptious escargot in a simple yet tasty olive oil and garlic and herbs reduction, in brushed pink shells that have us all irreverently and unnecessarily guessing and arguing, do they recycle the shells or not?
What follows is more appetizers, as though our appetites needed whetting, a trilogy of the smoothest dips outside of the Mediterranean...tzitziki, hummus, and salmon mousse. Then there is the exquisite salmon latkes...potato pancakes topped with smoked salmon artfully shaped like a rose, and capped with a bit of sour cream and salmon roe! Indulgent!
Then to prepare the palate for greater things to come was a cold and refreshing Salade a la Provence in strawberry flavored dressing. There was no need for a sorbet to cleanse the palate...the salad washed away the guilt and the remnants of the flavors in preparation for the entrees.
The piece de resistance were the bouillabaisse, lightly laced with saffron and enriched with catch of the day, and the duck confit, skin fried to a delectable crisp, even as the meat stayed moist and firm! Magnifique!
And for dessert, apple (or apfel) strudel with flaky crust and just a dollop of whipped cream to be sinful.
I have had the privilege to be back several times now, to have tried other dishes worth mentioning...the Chilean mussels in white wine and parsley ( after eating the mussels, the dipping the bread in the sauce makes a great meal in itself!)...the Cassoulet, France's version of patatim?, excuse my French...
What's the catch...?
For a meal such as that which we had, which helped us channel our inner pretentious Francophile and c'est si bon, one must be prepared to spend a modest sum (average Php2000 per pax, without wine; php2500-3000, with wine). The service is very courteous, if a bit slow, partly because the food is cooked only as one orders. One has to be a card carrying member of the Makati Garden Club too, and be ready to pay in cash or check only. These last two details are a result of the phenomenal success that followed the opening less than a year ago, and the subsequent imbroglio that happened with the landlord.
Indeed Maria Luisa Garden Restaurant is a unique dining experience even in Metro Manila, a city already jaded by all kinds of eating encounters. The ambience is priceless, a wonderful surprise to find in the midst of the concrete jungle and fast food haven. Inside, one wonders for a moment, where am I? This is Manila, right?
Maria Luisa Garden is just a few steps away from the hustle and bustle of the financial district...but literally, figuratively, and gastronomically, a world apart!
